The Evolving Standards of Feminine Beauty

It’s a little startling to compare each generation’s standard of feminine beauty. One of the best books I ever read was Psychocybernetics by Dr. Maxwell Maltz. Dr. Maltz had been a plastic surgeon for many years and he noticed this too. In the 1920s, busty women would come to see him and tearfully ask him to make them more flat-chested. In the 1920s, the standard for feminine beauty was a boyish-looking figure, like Louise Brooks.

Louise Brooks

He noticed their language. “I’m so ugly” and “I’m humiliated by my appearance.” But as time passed and the standard changed, flat-chested women would come to him pleading for breast implants. And they used the same kind of language.

Marilyn Monroe

They judged themselves harshly according to an impossible standard in their minds. But what got Dr. Maltz’ attention was that the standard wasn’t real, in the sense that it didn’t last. He did believe in a standard of beauty, I think, in terms of symmetry of the face or being a healthy weight. But for women who wanted to change their body structure, Dr. Maltz came to believe that changing these patients’ subconscious thinking to help them see themselves accurately and accepting themselves would help them far more than attempting to change their bodies and imperfect results could ever do. Patients like these eventually caused him to turn his attention away from plastic surgery and towards the subconscious mind.

According to UCSD, the current average model is between 5’9 and 6’ tall, weighing in between 90 and 120lbs, making most models moderately to severely underweight. Add in Photoshop to remove every blemish and flaw and the standard of feminine beauty becomes all but impossible for any woman to achieve. And the girls and women of 2023 react much like their great-grandmothers did.

Hollywood has a lot to do with all the standards of beauty I’ve mentioned so far, in terms of choosing the standard of the moment and then relentlessly pushing it on people. But what about before Hollywood—or before Hollywood became as powerful as it is? Let’s take a look at some early pictures of famous women and reputed beauties of their day.

These photos are from the Library of Congress with the available information beneath each picture.

Beautiful but dumb Photograph shows woman sitting provocatively on bed in nightgown talking on telephone. Created / Published c1926. (LOC)
Football girl Young woman wearing sweater, holding football. Created / Published c1906. (LOC)
In the harem Young woman in harem costume smoking and holding box of (Turkish?) cigarettes. Created / Published c1900. (LOC)
Molly Fuller, full-length portrait, standing, facing left, in costume Morrison, W. M. (William McKenzie), 1857-1927, photographer Created / Published c1895 (LOC)
Marie Prevost full-length, standing, facing right, in provocative dress Created / Published c1918 April 24. (LOC)
Lillies Young woman holding lilies. Created / Published c1902. (LOC)
Miss Swim Photograph shows portrait of young woman wearing bathing suit holding a parasol. Created / Published c1904. (LOC)
Young woman lying on sofa and holding burning cigarette Created / Published c1902.
Lottie Collins, three-quarter length portrait, standing, facing left, left hand on hip Created / Published c1892. (LOC)

Some of the pictures are pretty funny but one thing that stands out to me is the tolerance for imperfections and the variety of styles and builds. Perhaps it allowed many more women to feel acceptable?